Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these stories and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
